Nail Damage from Gel or Acrylics: What it looks like and how to spot it

It always feels great to get your nails done, and the length and strength that gel and acrylic nails add can be hard to beat. Plus, they last a lot longer than regular polish. But when gel and acrylics aren't done properly, it can lead to significant nail damage, allergy, and weak nails. This week, we're talking about how to spot damage from improperly applied gel and acrylic nails, and some next steps to take.

Acrylic Nails

Acrylic nails have been around longer than their gel counterpart, and are a type of fake nail formed from a "chemical paste made from powder and liquid materials", according to the Cleveland Health Clinic. It's attached to your natural nail and can be molded to your desired shape. Once the acrylic hardens, the nail can be filed and polished. Acrylic nails can last for up to 8 weeks, but you'll need a touch up (or "fill") as the nail grows and the gap between the acrylic and cuticle begins to show.

While the risk of health issues is low for most people, there are some things to consider when getting acrylics:

1. Allergic contact dermatitis: This is a sensitivity to certain substances touching the skin. Acrylates, which are the ingredient that helps acrylic nails harden, are a common trigger for allergic contact dermatitis. If you think you may have ACD, watch for cracking or peeling, dryness, itching, and redness around the nails. You may also experience itchy or red eyelids.

2. Brittle or weak nails: Unfortunately, roughing up and filing the nails to put acrylics on can weaken the nail plate. Removing acrylics can do just as much damage, as soaking the nails for 15 minutes in acetone can leave nails dry and brittle. Over filing is a common issue, and some people experience the "ring of fire", with red rings or lines where the drill was used. Other indicators of over filing are heat and pain around the cuticle.

3. Separation between the nail and nail bed: The bond between the acrylic nail and your nail is stronger than the bond between your natural nail and nail bed. Natural nails are flexible, and acrylic nails aren't. Because acrylic nails are so strong, many people may do things with their acrylic nails that they wouldn't normally do with their natural nails, and even things like typing or cooking can cause damage to the natural nail because it stresses the area where the nail plate attaches to the nail bed. This stress can cause the nail to pull away from the bed. If this happens, a new nail can grow and attach itself to the nail bed, but you should beware of increased risk of infection until the area heals. White areas at the tip are an indicator of the nail bed lifting.

4. Increased risk of infection: There are a few ways that acrylic nails increase the risk of infection: through contaminated tools, cutting cuticles, and through nail separation trapping moisture and allowing fungi or bacteria to grow; you may see a gap between the nail and nail plate. If you have a fungal infection from lifting, you'll notice brown, green, or yellow spots and the area may be crumbly. A bacterial infection tends to be red, inflamed, and sore.

Gel Nails

The benefits of gel polish are seemingly endless: It's just as easy to apply as regular polish, dries in minutes under a UV or LED lamp, it lasts much longer than regular polish, and delivers a beautiful shine. While gel can be a better option than acrylic for some, here are some things to watch for:

1. Gel allergy: Similar to the acrylate issue with acrylics, some people experience allergic contact dermatitis, which generally occurs when uncured gel polish touches the skin. If your nail tech (or if you're doing your nails at home) isn't careful to make sure the gel polish doesn't touch your skin and cuticles, it's possible you could develop an allergy. A gel allergy can also develop if the polish isn't cured correctly on the nail, allowing the chemicals in the polish to seep into the skin, causing an immune response. Symptoms of a gel allergy include intense itching, redness, swelling, fluid-filled blisters on the cuticles and fingers, and potential nail lifting.

2. Weak or brittle nails: As with acrylics, gel is often removed through soaking with acetone, drilling, or filing. When used incorrectly, these can damage the nail plate, weaken the nail, lead to nail dehydration, and possibly cause separation. Over filing can lead to the "ring of fire", with red rings or lines where the drill was used. Other indicators of over filing are heat and pain around the cuticle.

3. UV and LED concerns: Gel polish must be cured using a UV or LED lamp in order for it to dry. As The Manicurist puts it, "Their ultraviolet rays differ from those of the sun. When used reasonably, meaning not too frequently, with a power below 48W and by respecting the recommended curing time, these lamps do not present a specific danger." If you're concerned about harm from UV rays, applying sunscreen to your hands before your polish change can help.

4. Lifting and infection: Improperly applied gel nails can lead to lifting and infection, as lifting can create a moist pocket between the nail and the nail bed. If your nail is lifting and you notice green discoloration ("greenies"), pain, redness, or pus, you've likely got a bacterial infection. You may also notice the space under the nail may turn white, yellow, or grey and show signs of skin thickening, which are also signs of infection.

If you've gotten acrylics or gel and notice that things don't look like they should, it's important to safely remove the acrylic nail or gel polish. Salon Patrice offers gel and acrylic removal. We will safely remove the gel or acrylic, assess your nail health, and help you get your nails healthy again. In the case of infection, you may need to seek medical assistance. Find our list of nail services here, or call (815) 223-8643 for more information.